I’ve given up.
1. Click the big button 5 times to turn the unit on (or off).
2. Pressing the – button for 3 seconds displays battery voltage. Pressing the + button for 3 seconds displays the working resistance.
3. Single pressing of the +/- will increase or reduce with 0.1V or 0.5W increments depending on power mode.4. Press and hold down the + and – buttons at the same time to enter the Menu. Once in the menu the top right or + button will advance thru the menu and the top left or – button will change that menu setting. There are only 3 function settings in the Menu.
Menu Power/Voltage: Hold down both +/- buttons and it enters at Menu 1 and says Power/Voltage. Use the left button to set to either Voltage or Power output. Power output is beneficial in that regardless of your atomizer resistance, the unit will hold constant Power setting for the same vape. You forget about voltage as the unit adjusts that behind the scenes to hold the Power constant.
Menu LCD Display: Once in the Menu by holding +/- buttons advance to menu 2 by pressing the top right or + button. Menu 2 will say LCD Display and then pressing the top left or – button will allow you to switch what is shown on the screen while vaping. You can choose Power(voltage if set from menu 1), Resistance, or Battery. If set to power it will show your setting in Watts (or Voltage if output set to voltage) during vaping. Resistance will show the Atomizer resistance, Battery just shows the current charge of your battery.
Menu LCD: Once in menu from holding +/- press top right or + until you get to Menu 3 and it will say LCD On/Off. This menu function just allows you to turn the OLED on or off during vaping.
5. Press the big button to operate the unit.
6.To turn off, click the big button 5 times.
7. Battery monitoring shuts the unit off once battery has reached end of charge.
8. LCD displays LO-Ω if resistance lower than 1.2ohm, LO-V if short circuit.
9. Press and hold + button for over 10 seconds to enter Mobile Out On mode. Press main button for Mobile Out Off.
10. Hold main button while inserting the battery to show current firmware version on the screen.
You may remember my varivolt passthrough review, where I spoke against battery mods for their size and the necessity to unscrew them every time you need to replace the battery. Joytech now has a mod with charging via USB, but it requires more than 1 amp of input, whilst you normally can’t draw more than half of that from a standard PC USB port. So you have to bring a 1 amp wall charger with you, which makes everything pointless. You may just get a separate charger for the lithium batteries. So I bought the fucking largest mod with the big ass batteries, and now unscrew it all the time to replace batteries, which roll happily in my pocket. Can’t say this doesn’t drive me mad but it seems there is no way out. I had to choose between Provari version 2.5, Zmax and Vamo. I never really liked Provari, and now it is just outdated expensive toy. Zmax is too fragile – it has failing connector problems, bottom and button issues. But Vamo V5 really made an impression – good looking stainless still body, solid built, for an impressive price. So I got a Vamo V5. Let’s start with cons. The first thing is of course the size. The mod is enormous and really heavy, and atomizer makes it even bigger. Normally you use one 18650 or two 18350 batteries, but if you remove the extra tube, you may just use one 18350 battery, which makes the mod somewhat smaller. On the other hand, since when having a long device became a problem? This can easily be converted to an advantage if you carry it inside your pants front pocket. Suddenly girls become more friendly and even boys have to take you seriously. And then you pull out this long, glossy stick, put your lips around it and suck for hot, sticky and smelly liquid… Well, I digress. Next con – the spring is not secured in the cap, so you may easily lose it. The hole in the cap is safety valve. In case the battery explodes inside, the pressure will go out of this hole instead of converting your device to a frag grenade. Another con is it doesn’t show the battery level, only current battery voltage, which is not the same. And probably the last con is that it does not remember some of the settings after you replaced the battery. For instance, there is a setting to keep the screen off while vaping, which is on again after you replace the battery. Now a quick look on the device functionality. First – the connector. It is a stadard 510 with additional outer Ego threads, covered by a cap. This ego screw came really handy, as my Genesis V5 – which I also reviewed – leaves a tiny gap between the body and the atomizer. Genesis comes with and Ego cone, so I screwed it on, and now the atom fits perfectly. If your atomizer doesn’t come with a cone, get an airflow controller. It is cheap and provides the necessary additional support for heavy atomizers. Buttons. They are good, and there are 3 of them. This is very good, since you don’t have to learn Morse code to change voltage and other settings. More buttons means easy control. Another visible pro is OLED screen, meaning no back-light required. Holding the main button and inserting battery with show current firmware version on the screen. Pressing the button 5 times in quick succession turns the device on and off. Let’s run through the controls. The right button increases voltage, the left decreases. Holding left button for 3 seconds shows the battery voltage, holding right button for 3 seconds shows atomizer resistance. When the battery is dry, the display shows Low v. Interesting enough, checking the resistance at this point shows Lo v, without one letter. Holding left button for 10 seconds will switch output pulse mode from RMS to Mean. RMS is recommended. Press both buttons to access the menu. Left button goes around the menu, right button confirms selection and gets you back. First menu item is output mode – you can choose between varivolt – Voltage and variwatt – Power. In varivolt mode the voltage range changes from 3 to 6 with 0.1 increments. In variwatt mode, the output changes from 3 to 16 watt in 0.5 wt steps. Next menu item selects what to display while you hold the main button. The options are battery voltage, volts or watts on the connector or resistance of atomizer. The third item switches display on or off during vaping. Switch this option on if you don’t want the display to live up every time you take a puff. This is the option that is switched to default ON after you replace the battery. If you pressed the button, but no vapor comes out and the display shows 1.2 Ohm or less, that means the coil is too short or it short circuits the atomizer body or the mesh. Low resistance activates protection and no output is produced. When the resistance is too low, like 0.0 which basically means short-circuit, the device shows Low load and there is no power output. 9.9 ohms means the resistance is too high or there is no contact. There is also no power output. The power is not allowed to the connector to protect the batteries from extreme operation conditions, which prolongs the batteries life and prevents battery explosions. Another interesting feature. Holding the right button for over 10 seconds will display MOBILE OUT ON, and then show a battery filled according to current battery state. In this mode, the power goes to the connector constantly, without the need to press the button. This is basically power bank mode – you can use your vaping device to to charge your phone. To do that, you will need a 510 to USB female adapter. Press main button to exit this mode – the display shows MOBILE OUT OFF. And the last question – how does it vape? Well, see for yourself. Attached is a genesis, 2.1 Ohm, even though the device shows 1.7 for some reason, filled with Traditional liquid 55/35/10. Here’s how it vapes at different voltages. In general, I’m happy with the purchase.